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Wednesday, December 07, 2016

Why is my engine idle so rough?


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Why So Rough?

It might be over 20 years old but that doesn’t mean you don’t want it to run smoothly. In this case the component related to the code was not the culprit. Follow along with this Real Fix to see what the cause was.

Auto Repair Manuals

Get everything you need to diagnose and repair your car problems today. Online access to the same auto repair information the dealership uses. 

Vehicle
1995 Mazda B2300 2.3
Title
P1443, Engine Idles Rough, Replaced Idle Air Control Valve
Complaint
The customer states the engine idles rough. The customer also states the check engine light is on.

Cause
Confirmed the customer’s complaint and found the engine idled rough. Connected a scan tool and found code P1443 – Purge Flow System Circuit Malfunction. At idle, used the scan tool to monitor live data and found the evaporative emission (EVAP) purge flow sensor signal parameter was within the specified range of 1.5 to 2.0 volts. At idle, used the scan tool to command the purge solenoid open and observed the EVAP purge flow sensor signal parameter responded to changes in commanded purge rate and engine speed. Observed the idle speed was below the specified 475 to 575 rpm. Used the scan tool to command the idle air control valve on and found engine RPM did not change, indicating the idle air control valve was inoperative. Inspected the idle air control valve wiring harness and found no faults. Connected a test light in place of the IAC valve, used the scan tool to command the IAC valve on and found the test light was illuminated, indicating the wiring and control circuit were functional. Used a set of fused jumper wires and applied power and ground to the idle air control valve, and found the idle air control valve failed to operate. Used a multi-meter to measure the resistance of the idle air control valve and found the measured resistance was out of the specified range of 6 to 13 Ohms. The results of these tests indicated the idle air control valve was faulty.

Correction
Replaced the idle air control valve, cleared codes, performed a road test and verified the vehicle operated properly. The check engine light did not illuminate and no fault codes returned.

Source
This is a Real Fix from Mitchell 1′s new SureTrack®
expert information source. These documented issues from actual shop repair orders demonstrate how SureTrack can help you correct issues that are not easily diagnosed using OEM information alone. SureTrack is currently available free in our ProDemand product.

Monday, October 31, 2016

Where is the Relay?


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Relay or No Relay?

Not all vehicles stay as built by the factory. SureTrack community member thewrench had a diesel Dodge Pickup in their shop where the fuel system didn’t match the factory information because it had been retrofitted. They posed the question to the community, and with the help of fellow community member DieseltechJon and others, they were able to resolve the issue.

Auto Repair Manuals

Get everything you need to diagnose and repair your car problems today. Online access to the same auto repair information the dealership uses. 

Vehicle
2004 Dodge Pickup R3500 5.9L Diesel
Title
No Power to the Fuel Pump, Replaced Relay
Complaint
Truck will not start and repair information states that truck is equipped with a fuel lift pump attached to the fuel filter/water separator housing but this truck does not. Found references to retrofits on some of these trucks where an in-tank lift pump is used which apparently this truck has.

Diagnostic Steps Performed/Parts Replaced
We have no power to the fuel pump wire at the tank, and have not been able to find a fuel pump relay although retrofit repair information shows that there is a fuel pump relay, but does not specify location. C1 Pin 19 at the ECM shows to be Fuel Pump Relay Control and C1 Pin 6 shows to be Fuel Pump Relay Return. Underhood power control center does not show any of the relays to be a ‘Fuel Pump Relay’.
Best Answer from Community
If this truck had the retrofitting done check the driver side firewall area for the relay. Usually somewhere between the battery and firewall.
Cause
Faulty retrofit fuel pump relay.

Correction
Replaced fuel pump relay and truck now starts.

Source
This is a Real Fix from Mitchell 1′s new SureTrack®
expert information source. These documented issues from actual shop repair orders demonstrate how SureTrack can help you correct issues that are not easily diagnosed using OEM information alone. SureTrack is currently available free in our ProDemand product.

Thursday, October 20, 2016

Clicking Killed the Battery 2007 Chevy Impala


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Clicking Killed the Battery

Finding what is draining the battery can be tricky, but sometimes your ears will help you find the culprit. SureTrack community member kenscssvc had a Chevrolet Impala in their shop because the owner complained that the battery kept going dead. The charging system checked out, but while working on the vehicle they heard some clicking sounds under the dash. They posed the question to the community, and with the help of fellow community members dmckemie12 and ironnutz, they were able to resolve the issue.

Auto Repair Manuals

Get everything you need to diagnose and repair your car problems today. Online access to the same auto repair information the dealership uses. 

Vehicle
2007 Chevrolet Impala LT 3.5L
Title
Battery Going Dead, Replaced A/C Control Module and Actuators
Complaint
Customer states that battery goes dead while vehicle is sitting

Diagnostic Steps Performed/Parts Replaced
Performed Charging system test and all is normal. Shortly after the test, while looking for loose wiring, a clicking noise was found and appeared to be moving throughout the dash in a cycle. The temperature control doors were clicking, attempting to move but were in fact stuck to one extreme. Scanned the HVAC system and retrieved 3 codes.
 • B0223 Recirculate Position Command Circuit Actuator Stuck
 • B0408 Left Air Mix Control Circuit Malfunction Actuator Stuck
 • B0418 Temperature Control 2 Circuit Actuator stuck
Best Answer from Community
Try commanding the motors with scan tool to see if they operate. When they reach the end of their travel, the module sees the increase in amperage and turns them off. With the plastic worm gear worn off there is not enough load to raise the amperage so they continue to run. You can replace just the one that is ticking then reevaluate; not abnormal for them to set a code and still work fine.
Cause
Cannot command the motors – replaced 2 of the motors and still cannot command them. Internal failure of the controller causing motors to run with key removed draining battery.

Correction
Replaced HVAC control module and three bad mode door actuators. No more clicking noise and battery not draining with key off.

Source
This is a Real Fix from Mitchell 1′s new SureTrack®
expert information source. These documented issues from actual shop repair orders demonstrate how SureTrack can help you correct issues that are not easily diagnosed using OEM information alone. SureTrack is currently available free in our ProDemand product.

Monday, October 03, 2016

Cruise Doesn’t Work? Check the Bulbs


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The Bulbs for Cruise Control?

SureTrack community member aph915 had a truck in their shop where the cruise control was inoperative and the cruise indicator light in the dash didn’t illuminate as expected. They posed the question to the community, and with the help of fellow community member ericsautomotive and others, they were able to resolve the issue.

The following Real Fix summarizes the interaction between them in the community that led to the solution.

Auto Repair Manuals

Get everything you need to diagnose and repair your car problems today. Online access to the same auto repair information the dealership uses. 

Vehicle
2002 GMC Yukon XL K1500 5.3
Title
Cruise Control Inoperative, Replaced Bulbs
Complaint
Customer complained that the cruise control was inoperative. Further investigation determined that the cruise indicator light was not illuminating as expected.

Diagnostic Steps Performed/Parts Replaced
Checked for DTCs and found none. PCM shows cruise control inhibited-yes. Have checked switch functions at cruise control module and all work and powers and grounds are good. Performed service manual test for cruise control inoperative and came to replacing PCM. Replaced PCM and cruise is still inoperative. Speedometer working correctly. All brake lights working. Cannot determine cause of cruise control inhibit.
Best Answer from Community
Backprobe power and ground supplies to the cruise control servo. Are they all present and the right voltage levels?.
Member Name: ericsautomotive
Cause
Found that the almost 5 volt signal at the cruise control servo was caused by customer installed LED brake light bulbs.

Correction
Replaced brake light bulbs with conventional bulbs and the 5 volts went away and the cruise control started working

Source
This is a Real Fix from Mitchell 1′s new SureTrack®
expert information source. These documented issues from actual shop repair orders demonstrate how SureTrack can help you correct issues that are not easily diagnosed using OEM information alone. SureTrack is currently available free in our ProDemand product.

Monday, September 26, 2016

Start and Stall 2003 Chevy Tahoe


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Staying Grounded

Sometimes it’s a simple problem causing your problems. SureTrack community member chuys123 had a Chevrolet Tahoe in their shop that wouldn’t start. Everything seems to check out ok but still couldn’t figure it out. They posed the question to the community, and with the help of fellow community member runtherack and others, they were able to resolve the issue.

The following Real Fix summarizes the interaction between them in the community that led to the solution.

Auto Repair Manuals

Get everything you need to diagnose and repair your car problems today. Online access to the same auto repair information the dealership uses. 

Vehicle
2003 Chevrolet Tahoe 4.8
Title
Start and stall, Fixed PCM grounding
Complaint
Customer states that vehicle will start and run for like a minute or two then stall. Might restart and run for a minute or two again and eventually will not restart at all. Customer said they were driving and instrument cluster needles went crazy and vehicle died.

Diagnostic Steps Performed/Parts Replaced
Checked fuel pressure and it is 55psi, has spark and injector pulse. The only odd thing I see is the injector pulse and spark seem amplified. The NOID light blinks very bright and the spark looks very strong, again like if it’s amplified. I have also attempted to spray starting fluid to no avail, replaced TAC module and throttle body, still the same issue. Scanner has no codes, the only weird thing is in the abs, I am able to read codes but get No Communication error for data. I disconnected ABS module and no difference. Scanner shows theft system not active.
Best Answer from Community
Check the ground cable routed from the lower right hand corner of the engine (G104) to the frame (G105). Verify the cable is tight at both ends and the cable is in good condition.
Member Name: runtherack
Cause
Found a loose PCM ground.

Correction
Repaired loos PCM ground and vehicle starts and runs as it should.

Source
This is a Real Fix from Mitchell 1′s new SureTrack®
expert information source. These documented issues from actual shop repair orders demonstrate how SureTrack can help you correct issues that are not easily diagnosed using OEM information alone. SureTrack is currently available free in our ProDemand product.

Wednesday, September 14, 2016

2005 Chevy Express Wiring Harness Fix


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Rubbed the Wrong Way

No way! Can a powertrain control module wiring harness rub through an upper control arm? It has happened and we have the Real Fix to prove it. Don’t spend all day tracing wires and utilize this Real Fix to find the exact location of the damaged wiring harness.

Auto Repair Manuals

Get everything you need to diagnose and repair your car problems today. Online access to the same auto repair information the dealership uses. 

Vehicle
2005 Chevrolet Chevy Express G3500, 4.8L
Title
Engine Runs Rough, Repaired Powertrain Control Module Wiring Harness
Complaint
The customer states the engine runs rough.
Cause
Confirmed the customer’s complaint and found the engine ran rough. Used a scan tool to monitor live data, performed a road test and found some of the powertrain control module parameters dropped out intermittently. Disconnected the powertrain control module connectors, visually inspected the connectors and terminals and found no obvious signs of damage. Visually inspected the powertrain control module wiring harness and found the harness was rubbed through at the left front suspension upper control arm.

Correction
Repaired the powertrain control module wiring harness and verified the vehicle operated properly. The customer’s concern did not return.

Source
This is a Real Fix from Mitchell 1′s new SureTrack®
expert information source. These documented issues from actual shop repair orders demonstrate how SureTrack can help you correct issues that are not easily diagnosed using OEM information alone. SureTrack is currently available free in our ProDemand product.

Wednesday, August 31, 2016

2001 dodge ram 1500 5.2 alternator not working


I'm working on a friends truck that the battery keeps dying. He got another alt from the salvage yard and its doing the same thing as the original. The gauge in the dash will read about 13 volts while idling but if you take it for a drive the check gauges light will come on and the charging gauge will drop as far as it can. it has power to the main feed from the battery to the alt but not to the two smaller wires plugged into the back of the alt. any ideas?

RESPONSE

If this is one of the type of alternators that has the integral
regulator built-in, there should be a place where you can insert a
Phillips screwdriver or small metal rod to ground a tab on the
regulator to force the alternator to put out full current. If it has
that and it doesn't put out full current at a higher than normal
voltage (should be over 14 volts, could be close to 15 volts), then
the alternator is at fault. If it does put out that voltage and higher
current then perhaps the regulator is faulty if the voltage doesn't
stay around 13.5 volts when the alternator is running without using
this trick to test the alternator.

You can get a decent current tester like this one:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Vintage-SEARS-Starter-Generator-ALT-Indicater-Current-Amp-Tester-NEW-9442145-/182255638946

to check current. It clips over the battery cable. If you reverse the
connection it will reverse the direction on the meter, so make sure
you're reading current output from the alternator. The smaller channel
on the rear of the tester is for lower amperage readings. The larger
one is for starting current.

Is the battery in good condition? Does it hold a charge?

Monday, August 08, 2016

Where is the Freon going?


Below is a Real Fix from Mitchell 1′s new SureTrack®
expert information source. These documented issues from actual shop repair orders demonstrate how SureTrack can help you correct issues that are not easily diagnosed using OEM information alone. SureTrack is currently available free in our ProDemand product.
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Where’s the Freon Going?

It’s hot outside! Where’s the refrigerant going? SureTrack community member Lutters had a Prius in their shop that repeatedly lost its Air Conditioning System Freon. They posed the question to the community, and with the help of fellow community member ericsautomotive and others, they were able to resolve the issue.

The following Real Fix summarizes the interaction between them in the community that led to the solution.

Auto Repair Manuals

Get everything you need to diagnose and repair your car problems today. Online access to the same auto repair information the dealership uses. 

Vehicle
2010 Toyota Prius BASE 1.8
Title
Repeat A/C Refrigerant Loss, Replaced Evaporator
Complaint
Car came in 1 month ago for poor air conditioning cooling. Found refrigerant level .8# low. No obvious leaks.
Diagnostic Steps Performed/Parts Replaced
Recharged and added dye. Came in today, less than 1 month later for poor cooling, system down .3#. Very hard to see condenser but no dye seen and no sniffer results. Took blower motor out and used sniffer and camera with black light and found no leaks. All A/C lines and compressor are good.
Best Answer from Community
No dye on the outside = No high side leaks….. It’s got to be on the inside!!! There are TSBs on odor and other Evap issues. Did you try sniffing the drain while system is on low speed?
Member Name: ericsautomotive
Cause
After rechecking a week later, we found traces of dye on the frame section directly below the evaporator drain tube. The only way to see this was with a mirror and black light.

Correction
Replaced A/C evaporator and has been good since.

Monday, July 11, 2016

Hydraulic radiator fan Lincoln LS


Below is a Real Fix from Mitchell 1′s new SureTrack®
expert information source. These documented issues from actual shop repair orders demonstrate how SureTrack can help you correct issues that are not easily diagnosed using OEM information alone. SureTrack is currently available free in our ProDemand product.
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Hydraulics, Cool?

The cooling fan on this Lincoln LS is common because it’s hydraulically powered. Since this fan is hydraulic, oil pressure dictates the speed of the fan. When the solenoid controlling the flow of pressure fails, the fan no longer operates properly and the vehicle is prone to overheating. Don’t let the P1299 trouble code get you heated and use this Real Fix to solve the overheating fault.

Auto Repair Manuals

Get everything you need to diagnose and repair your car problems today. Online access to the same auto repair information the dealership uses. 

Vehicle
2001, Lincoln LS, 3.0L
Title
P1299, Replaced Hydraulic Fan Solenoid
Complaint
The customer states the check engine light is on.
Cause
Connected a scan tool and found code P1299 – Cylinder Head Over Temperature Protect. Inspected the engine coolant level and condition and found no faults. Started the vehicle, allowed the engine to idle and noticed the vehicle began to overheat after 20 minutes. Also, observed the hydraulic fan did not engage. Used a multi-meter to check for power and ground at the hydraulic fan solenoid and found both were present. Inspected the hydraulic fan solenoid wiring harness and found no faults. This indicated the hydraulic fan solenoid was faulty.

Correction
Replaced the hydraulic fan solenoid, cleared codes, performed a road test and verified the vehicle operated properly. The check engine light did not illuminate and no fault codes returned.

Tuesday, June 21, 2016

Replacing A/C compressor, rec/drier, etc.on 1998 Chevy S-10

I replaced an Air Conditioning compressor on my 1998 S-10 4-cyl (2.2L engine)
pick up 3 to 5 years ago. The system is once again not working, though
the electric A/C compressor clutch kicks in OK. Pressure is nearly the
same between the high and low sides, which I believe whas what
happened before I replaced the compressor the last time.

I had replaced it with a Chinese made copycat compressor and a
receiver drier, and possibly an orifice tube (not sure about the last
item). I hooked everything up loosely and let a backyard (but
licensed) A/C mechanic finish the job with the proper O-rings, oil,
refrigerant, etc., and the job included a flush of the condenser and
evaporator coils and the connecting plumbing.

I do not know if the flush was thorough enough but I did watch him
flush the system. I plan to purchase the canister to put the flushing
fluid into to flush my system before putting the new compressor and
receiver-drier on and doing a vacuum on the system then charging it.

I would like to do the replacement myself this time. I have the gauge
set and a vacuum pump and have used it since the last time I got the
replacement done on other vehicles, including evacuating and
recharging an A/C system on a 97 Mazda Protege. I can follow
directions well enough as I've rebuilt a Honda Accord engine by
following the instructions in a repair manual and asking a few
questions of friends who have experience with this sort of thing.

First, I've found a complete parts set of a compressor and receiver
drier on Rock Auto dot com for a reasonable price. I can add less than
$100 more and get a condenser coil, but I am not sure I need it (see
next paragraph).

I have read where some of the very newest vehicles use such tiny tubes
in the condenser coils that they are near impossible to flush.
However, I don't know if they were that small in '98 or not, so I need
some input here as to whether I can just flush the original condenser
and re-use it or not???

Also, when I flush the various sections of the system, I would
appreciate knowing which hose/port and direction to flush the fluid
through, or does it matter which direction I force the fluid through
the system when it's opened up???

I don't plan to be stingy with the fluid even though it's not cheap.
If I use a whole gallon on the system that's fine with me if I need
to. But if I only need to buy a fraction of that then I can save some
money there, too. So how much of this flush fluid will I need to buy?

Does it store well when unused for a long time if tightly sealed?

I will also need to know what sort of torque to apply to the bolts on
the fittings at the compressor and anywhere else I need to be careful
about torque. I might not be able to torque the hose fittings as I
only have a wrench which will fit sockets but I am open to any
suggestions or help. This is my first A/C compressor replacement job
so I want to approach it cautiously and get whatever advice that might
be helpful. The previous replacement I didn't really do any of the
technical work, though I"ve learned about the evacuation and recharge
process and have done that successfully on the Mazda.

Any help with this would be appreciated. I've posted this to the two
groups which have helped me the most in my various automotive repairs.
Both groups have helped me in the past with my S-10, and I thank you
all for that.

I will wait a few days for replies to come in before I order anything.
If I need to buy a condenser coil also (and I'd rather not so I can
avoid the extra work of removing and replacing it in this hot summer
weather), I can get it cheaper in a set from Rock Auto.

If any of you use Rock Auto and know how to find generic items like
the flush fluid instead of me buying it through ebay (or if you have a
better source), please share that, too. I can find model-specific
parts very easily but when it comes to the generic stuff I find it
hard to find there, but I would think they would have those items too.
Thanks in advance.